The aim of the project is to provide a fully non-destructive photo retouching program that includes a complete workflow from RAW image development to high-quality printing.
Creating and using luminosity masks with PhotoFlow (inspired from Patrick David's blog).
#Photoflow camera system how to
How to match the Nikon in-camera jpeg colors with PhotoFlow. How to process a RAW image in PhotoFlow. Non-destructive Orton effect in PhotoFlow. Patrick depoix ( G+): French translator. Andreas Katifes ( G+): beta tester, tutorial maker and motivation booster. Olivier Samyn ( homepage, COPR): packager and beta tester. Joermungand ( G+, AUR): packager and beta tester. Dariusz Duma ( G+, blog, PPA): packager, blogger and beta tester. Project maintained by aferrero2707 Hosted on GitHub Pages - Theme by mattgraham Contributors: Not the greatest picture, sky is all blow out, nothing really interesting here.A fully non-destructive photo retouching program providing a complete RAW image editing workflow The following picture is as you walk off the highway, through the parking lot, up to the entry to the race track. Thats also why I chose the 55mm lens, a better batch for the human eye than a wide lens or a tele-photo lens. So I avoided taking photos for artistic merit, and preferred more of a first person, walk-about view. Stylistically, I tried to take the photos in a way that would impart on the viewer the feeling of walking up to and around the race track. They typically have eight hours of racing with a variety of stock and funny car categories once a month. Chemicals – T-Max developer diluted 1:4, Ilford Ilfostop, Ilford Rapid Fixer, Kodak Photo-Flow 200 The Photosįor the photos, I went to the local stock car racing track. I also broke down and bought a darkroom changing bag online, to reduce light leaks and scratches on the negative (from the blanket). Use chemicals that go well with the film – TMAX Developer for the TMAX 100 film. Focus on one film, with good documentation – in this case TMAX 100. Fresh chemicals (I realize this may seem obvious, but going cheap on expired chemicals was costing me more in expensive film). Photos with really light areas and really dark areas. Better initial images – work really hard to get images that look good in black in white in the camera. So I decided on the following principles to improve my negatives: I very nearly gave it up.īut I decided to give it one last go, I think partially inspired by the articles on 35mmc… if everyone else can do it, why can’t I? The Plan Spots on the negatives, water spots were other problems. The biggest problem was that my negatives tended to be soft greys, not the sharp blacks and whites that I wanted. Well, for the longest while, my results sucked, to be honest. I improvised a heavy, dark blanket as a ‘change bag’. I bought a used Patterson tank off of ebay, some plastic water bottles for containers, and some measuring cups from a local thrift shop. Intrigued by the book, I decided to try my hand at black and white photography. The zone system really made me think about how to compose an image, how to really think about the exposure. I had always thought of the digital image or negative as the end point, not the beginning. To my surprise, most of the book talked about the printing after a negative had been created. I shot only digital at the time, but I thought that maybe it would have some good tips on exposure and such. So I read the book from cover to cover, multiple times. Staying for a week in someone else’s house, with a family that went to bed early, left me incredibly bored. Due to a mix-up caused by the logistical nightmare of bringing a newborn baby with all it’s day-to-day stuff and all the Christmas gifts to another city in a tiny car, I ended up at the in-laws house for several days with a single gift for myself, from my parents, Ansel Adams’ “Basic Techniques of Photography, Book II”. One Christmas, early in my marriage, I ended up spending Christmas at my in-laws house, which was in a different city from the one I lived in.
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